Leather in perfumery is a reconstruction — there's no "leather essential oil." Perfumers recreate it through combinations of birch tar, styrax, castoreum (now mostly synthetic), and smoky accords. The result is one of perfumery's most psychologically powerful notes: communicating strength, luxury, and unapologetic presence.
Smoky, slightly sweet, animalic warmth. Good leather accords have a suede-like softness underneath the power — think of a well-worn leather jacket versus a new car smell. The best leather fragrances balance toughness with sensuality.
Leather creates immediate perceptions of power and assertiveness. It's one of the few notes that consistently registers as "dominant" in psychological testing. But it's a nuanced dominance — not aggressive, but assured.